Jeffrey Dobereiner’s Blog

One of the minor excursions we made that I am yet to describe was to the Sinai Desert in Egypt. This stretch of land was annexed, and ceded back by the Israel in relatively recent history. This exchange has made it somewhat of a vacation haven for Israelis looking for a cheap place to spend time in the middle of nowhere by the Red Sea. Crossing from Israel into Egypt at Taba, they actually can only give you a “Sinai Pass.” A full visa which allows entry into the rest of the country must be acquired in advance from a consulate.

Sinai is appallingly picturesque, and the part bordering the Red Sea is mostly devoid of development. This area, with a perfect view of Saudi Arabia across the water, is mostly undeveloped. Those towns that do exist, are effectively sets of thatch roofed huts, in areas with no industry besides catering to the (currently relatively small number of) tourists. We went to one of the first such set of huts, well known to my friend’s family in advance of the cession of the territory to Egypt – Beer Swear.

Beer Swear Sabah was perhaps the only hut-hotel-set with an active clientele at this time, featuring the 6 of us, and a few other Americans and Israelis. Besides this the beach was almost devoid of anyone but the local Bedouins, who have occupied the land far longer than the modern nation states.

But Sinai is crazy. You have to wear shoes into the water for fear that a stonefish will inject you with its deadly venom. Toxic dragonfish and huge swordfish like animals dominate the coral reefs right off shore. Most notably, but unbeknownst to us until our return to Israel were the entertaining and highly frightening Textile Cone-Snails.  It turns out these fast moving sons of bitches are one of the most poisonous animals in the sea. There’s no antivenom – the only way to save you is to put you on life-support until your body metabolizes all of the toxins. Indeed, there are records of people dying from cone snails. Unbelievable.

For those in need of a more urban setting, Neweiba city is a bit to the south and offers all of the modern amenities like stores and electricity. Overall, however, there’s no better (or cheaper) way to have time melt away, then staying in a bungalow by the Sinai Red Sea.